India’s ‘surfing swami’ preaches the virtues of the perfect wave

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The shore is empty. The sharp morning sun cuts the water into diamonds. For the guru and his pupil, the surf beckons.

“There are more than 1.2 billion people in India. How many people do you see in the water? Hardly anybody,” said the guru, Jack Hebner, 70, a tall American known as India’s “surfing swami.” He gestures toward the pristine sweep of sand. “All these waves are waiting to be ridden. India is a surfer’s paradise.”

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